Apeks
Regulator Repair Kits
Drygloves and Ring Kits:
info
Bayonet
Ring Installation
Cuffs, Seals and
Hoods:
download
cuff slideshow
info
prices
Valves:
info
prices
Glue / Adhesives:
application
Info
prices
Contact
and Payment Info
We
have gathered together several "form letters" that we use for answering
common questions regarding cuff, seal, and valve replacement as well as
plain old suit repair info.
This page is a work in progress so if
things read a bit on the funny side or contains redundant
material, we're working on cleaning things up. If you happen
to
have HTML code writing experience, feel free to offer to help out. It's
a good way to get yourself set up with dive goodies in exchange for
your labor.
Yes, pictures are also on the list of future additions,
and one of these days we'll upload our "Drysuit Cuff Replacement
Slideshow" now that internet speed has caught up with the
file size.
For a great "how to" book on suit repair, we heartily recommend Wetsuit and
Drysuit Maintenance and Repair By Steve Lindblom,
available
through Airspeed Press.
Viking
"Good Grip" rubber gloves are $42 per pair, includes a plush pair of
Merino Wool liners. Sizes 10 & 11.
They come in 2 styles, one with plain gauntlet for use with the Ring
Kits, or the "cuffed" version (seen below) that has an
integral dry cuff molded as part of the glove, for use with no rings at
all.
Sheet Neoprene:
Sold by the
square foot, black neoprene with or without nylon.
Thicknesses from 3mm to 7mm. Download the Poseidon Manual (link below)
for DIY directions on cuff & seal fabrication and replacement.
DESCO Air Hat users can make their own neck dams for well under $20
now, or even mate your Pot to your neoprene suit by making a yoke
& gluing it on to your suit.
Detailed prices & descriptions coming soon.
Apeks kits:
We lost our Apeks dealership when Aqualung took over distribution in
the US. That frees us up from that pesky dealership agreement that
prohibited us from selling kits directly to the regulator owner.
AP0219
- $17.50 ea
for
"universal" Apeks second stage kits.
AP0241 -
$31.50 ea for "universal"
Apeks first stage
kits.
$4.95
- postage, Priority Mail up to 1 lb.
We
also stock other commonly needed Apeks parts, just ask for them by
using the Apeks Part Number, available in the parts list of
your
shop manual.
ChristoLube
is $20 for a 1.5oz jar.
Priority
Mail in a box runs $4.95 for up to a pound (within the US), or if just
a couple - few kits, $3.50 for 1st class in a bubble envelope.
International
1st class starts at $4.50; actual price determined by destination,
weight, and services (such as registered, etc).
Payment
options are listed down below.
Drysuit
Exhaust and Inflator Valves
The
only valves we use are the Si Tech; they were the first & still
generally recognized as being way less problematic than the
Apeks.
The
hole size will be either spot on or off by no more than 1/8" so that
part is no problem.
The
main consideration will be if your suit has a "valve port" or if the
valve is just glued on with bathtub caulk (a feature
that's
pretty cheezy, even on "expensive" suits).
Is
there a "rubber mounting plate" on your suit? It usually will have 1 or
2 grooves that match the ridge on the underside of your valve.
The
best exhaust out there is going to be the Viking Hazmat (X-2) exhaust
valve which actually has 2 stacked check valves in
the
critter.
It
uses a "narrow" groove so your valve port would have to either be a
universal, with 2 grooves, or none at all & just
squeeze some
more silicone caulk on your suit.
The
low profile Si Tech exhaust valves are $65 & the Viking Hazmat
valves (also made by Si Tech) are $80. The Viking Hazmat Exhausts have
a double checkvalve in them so you'll stay dry even if the valve is
pressed while there's no air in your suit.
We
also have several styles of valve ports [$8], the rubber mounting
base/plate that gets glued to the suit & allows easy repeated
removal of the valves without having to glue or caulk the valves back
on.
The
ports come in "universal" exterior or an interior mounted port that
won't fit the Viking valves.
Cuff Dumps
(valve port included) are $35. They come with an "on / off" capability.
US
shipping for up to 1 lb is via Priority Mail & runs $4.95.
Payment
options are listed below, or if you need
more info just drop an email to: salesinfo@comdive.com
Neoprene cuff, face seal repair
& replacement
The "old" Unisuit Manual has one of the best neoprene
fabrication guides I've seen.
"Back
in the day" divers seemed to be much more apt to do repairs themselves,
probably because dive shops were fewer & further between and
parts
were hard to come by.
Many times the diver was way out in the
boonies, especially when working on salvage & maritime
construction
projects. Even having 2 or more suits, it wouldn't do to have a suit
out of circulation for several days or weeks getting simple repairs
done.
We have scanned the old Poseidon Unisuit Manual & have made it
available for download.
The
"lousy copy" is at: http://comdive.com/unisuit.pdf
(do a right click, select "save as")
Here's
another one that is a "little less" fuzzy: http://www.angelfire.com/ca/divers3/unisuit.pdf
We
are due to scan the manual again at higher resolution so you may want
to email us to get on the "to notify" list. The old links will point to
the new scan, when it eventually gets done.
Cuffs, with Tape &
other Gluing Info
Download
& check over the cuff directions at: http://comdive.com/cuffs.zip
(do a "right click, save as") More info on the slideshow is
down below.
Melco tape & glue
application directions (not necessarily in order):
There are a few different ways to apply the tape, depending on what
type of material it's getting applied to.
Some tape application instructions "used to" be found at McNett:
They made a
new website so we're having to resort to the "Wayback Machine"
(Internet Archive) to get to the application
directions page.
It
basically says:
Use
information for Melco™
Tape
Melco tape should be
briefly heated to between 310° F and 330°
F and then pressed for best bonding. Air nozzles on heat taping
machines may need to be set to significantly higher temperatures to
assure that the hot melt adhesive reaches 310°
F to 330° F in the
allotted amount of time. Determining optimal heating temperature and
machine speed will require some experimentation.
Hand iron
applications will also work,
but will require experimentation and careful application. Melco tape
can also be attached using Aquaseal, Seam Grip or Seal Cement.
Tape and Glue
Application
If you have material samples/scraps that you can play with you can use
a heat gun & a wallpaper or laminate roller, or else you can
just
pin the tape to a slab of cardboard & use wetsuit
cement. It's still necessary to prep the material
surface
by doing the degrease/scuff/degrease technique, ESPECIALLY
the
cuffs themselves, as they frequently have silicone mould release
compound on them. Get some toluene, lacking that, alcohol. Toluene (aka
toluol) is frequently found at paint, hardware, and/or automotive
supply stores. In California, a person needs to be 18 to buy it (or any
glue containing it!)
We
get our toluene from our local ACE Hardware Store, it's in the paint
department & runs about $8 for a quart can. They've
also got
MEK.
Wipe/scrub well with the solvent on a clean rag, scuff with sandpaper,
and wipe again with toluene on a clean rag. Be careful not to let the
rags sit in a heap; they can get awful hot.
Generally
you can get by with just 1 (maybe 2) coats of glue on the tape
& 2
(maybe 3) coats on the material surface. Allow the glue to dry
completely tack free between coats. When applying glue to a fabric
surface it may be desirable to thin down the first coat or 2 so it can
soak into the fabric for a tight bond.
No
pre-glue prep needs to be done to the tape, other than pinning it down
so it doesn't curl up.
I use a little "hand iron", something that's normally used for working
aircraft covering fabrics and/or vinyl upholstery. I do the glue
technique quite a bit too though, especially on very heat sensitive
materials like neoprene.
Wallpaper seam rollers costing a couple bucks will work just as well as
a $50 laminate roller. Check your local hardware store or any place
selling wallpaper. You'll need to roll the tape if using glue or a hot
air gun.
I tend to shy away from hair dryers, they vary widely in construction
& heat output. Because the tape needs to be heated to between
310°F
- 330°F things can get a little hairy if you don't have the heat gun
technique down.
Hobby shops that have model airplane building supplies are good places
to look for the "sealing iron" & heat guns. Watch out on the
sealing irons though, some models are low temperature & won't
get
hot enough to activate the tape's adhesive. For an example of the
little hand iron see: http://www.hobby-lobby.com/heatgun.htm
Lacking
a roller good results can be had by whacking the assembled parts with a
rubber mallet, being careful not to mash the mandrels. Dust a little
talc over any exposed glue so you don't wind up with an "oops story"
after the fact.
I like to allow the cuffs to "rest" overnight
before applying the tape. That's assuming I don't have to be spending
the next 12 hours on the bottom of the Mississippi after a few hours of
sleep.
Neoprene Glue Directions (from
the [old] McNett Website):
Seal
Cement Contact Cement for Neoprene is ideal for applications where
rapid cure times and high flexibility and elasticity are required.
Seal
Cement's ideal tack and rapid cure time (15 to 30 minutes) and
excellent strength often makes it ideal for applications where
production must proceed at a steady pace. Though the urethane adhesives
can provide higher bond strength in many applications, the Seal Cement
formula may provide easier bonding on difficult surfaces such as vinyl.
Examples
of Seal Cement compatible materials: Vinyls, latex, Hypalon®, neoprene,
natural and synthetic fabrics, other materials.
Seal
Cement is available in Black or Clear in 2 oz. tubes, 4 oz. cans and
gallons.
(We stock only the black 4oz. cans.)
Use Information and Surface
Preparation for Seal Cement
NOTE:
Treat the following information as a guideline only. Test all
applications thoroughly before initiating full production.
For
most applications of Seal Cement the surface need only be clean and
dry; however, new materials such as plastics, vinyls, latex and
composites will often be contaminated with mold release agents or other
oils which will need to be removed with solvents to achieve maximum
bond strength.
NOTE:
Take all appropriate safety precautions when using solvents and
adhesives. Follow manufacturer's directions and use appropriate safety
equipment when necessary.
Uncontaminated
plastics and composites: Wipe bonding surfaces with isopropyl alcohol.
Allow alcohol to evaporate before bonding.
Plastics
and composites contaminated with mold release agents: Wipe bonding
surfaces with isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag (or stronger solvent).
Roughen surface with abrasive tool or fine grit sandpaper and wipe
again with isopropyl alcohol soaked rag. Allow alcohol to evaporate
before bonding.
Rubber,
latex and vinyls: Wipe bonding surfaces with MEK-soaked rag. Roughen
surface with abrasive tool or fine grit sandpaper and wipe again with
MEK-soaked rag. Allow MEK to evaporate before bonding.
Keep
treated area level until adhesive is fully cured (30 minutes or longer
depending upon humidity and other factors).
Cuffs, Seals & Dryglove
Rings:
We've
got a pretty good assortment of cuffs & seals here, all of
which will work on most all dive drysuits.
There's
a slideshow put together for cuff replacement, it was done back before
broadband was common so it was made as a self-unpacking compressed file
so it could handle the picture's file sizes easier.
It's
at: http://comdive.com/cuffs.zip
Do
a right click & select "save as". Unzip & click on the
resulting *.exe file & it'll unpack itself.
"One of these days" we'll post the slideshow online as a regular
website photo album.
Most
folks attach the rings to a suit already equipped with cuffs installed
but a few brave souls try to make a permanent glue job of the rings,
something usually not recommended for someone moderately new to glue
slinging.
Prices
on cuffs alone are:
(HD
= "Heavy Duty", which can be a tricky term)
Bell / Bellows:
$28/pr
Pro:
$32/pr (flat conical, ½ HD, ½
regular thickness. Also called "double
dipped". Some manufacturers "stretch the truth" & call them
"HD",
but not in my book 'cuz we also sell the real HD.)
HD: $36/pr (all one
thickness, some folks find them too thick for periods of long use).
Pics
are at Viking's website: http://www.vikingdiving.com/?id=1624
(the ring kits are there too)
Neckseals:
bellows or flat conical, $28. The flat conical is also available in
"double dipped" (½ HD, ½ "regular" thickness) for the same price as the
regular single thickness neckseals.
Both
the bell / bellows cuffs & neckseals come in several sizes;
you'll
need to wrap a tape measure around the neck or wrist so we can select
the proper size.
Latex hoods are $34.
Zippers:
Standard 8 teeth
per inch in several
lengths: $145.
HD zippers (6
tpi) have teeth
that are actually individually riveted right through the fabric.
31.5", 35.5", and 37" with 8 tpi: $145
The 35.5" have a little lighter weight fabric, they're used on the
front zip suits so they can bend a bit easier.
37" HD, 6 tpi, riveted teeth: $195
relief zippers: $80 (8tpi) HD relief zippers are available, though most
folks prefer the more flexible 8 teeth per inch version.
We also have the reinforcing strips that go over the holes.
Zipper
length is pretty close to what size hole they fit into, or "outside of
zipper stop to outside of zipper stop", but it seems that nearly
everybody uses a different measurement technique.
To make things more confusing, the zippers will GROW in
length from open to closed.
Your
best bet is to measure several different ways; such as the length of
hole the zipper fits into, and if you can still close the
zipper,
measure just the toothed part, from inside of the stop to inside of the
stop. Then do another measurement from outside to outside of the zip
stops, just for grins. Email me the info & I'll try to figure
things out from there.
McNett's
"Seal Cement" (neoprene cement): $8.50/4 oz can, black. uses
Toluene / toluol for thinner / degreaser.
PB-300: 4
oz. can, $19.95 - uses MEK for thinner / degreaser.
Pliobond: 8 oz can, $12 - uses MEK
for thinner / degreaser.
Viking
/ Gates / Amron vulcanized rubber glue / cement is $24 for a pint can,
$16 for a 1 oz. bottle of hardener, usually enough to do at
least 2
cans of glue. Uses heptane for thinning / degreasing
Glues
& hardeners store well in the freezer after being opened. The
hardener may show crystallization when cold but warming back to room
temps will put them back into solution.
Tape,
Melco fabric or rubber: $1.50/ft. (3' needed per pair of cuffs)
Also
have a cotton parachute bias fabric tape for $1.50 / yd., it needs to
be soaked in glue (wetsuit cement) but wears like iron.
The
fabric tapes are easier to remove the next time cuffs need replacing,
they just need a couple applications of solvent (toluene /
toluol) & they pull off more or less intact. Rubber
tapes
come off hard, often
needing to be shaved with a razor or hit with a Dremel &
sanding disc.
We
can send up to a quart of wetsuit cement or rubber glue through the US
Mail when properly packed & labeled with an "ORM-D" label, so
for
most folks there will be no extra hazmat shipping fees needed.
Drysuit Cuff,
Seal, and Zipper Maintenance Materials
You can apply some TLC and keep your repairs to a minimum.
Zippers,
if tended to carefully, should outlast the suit. We have put together a
"Drysuit Zipper Care & Feeding Kit" that will keep your zipper
healthy and happy.
The kit consists of a bottle of McNett's "Zip Care"
fluid, some 100% pure virgin beeswax in "mini-puck" form, and a small
toothbrush. $7.50 for the kit, or $3.50 for the wax & $5 for
the "Zip Care".
It's
not overkill to clean & lube your zipper before every dive, and
sometimes you will want to rinse your zipper off before opening it
after the dive.
We have suits that have well over 10 years of hard
diving in a commercial environment and the zippers are still holding up
strong.
For the fabric portion of the zipper and the latex rubber parts of your
suit, we recommend McNett's
"UV
Tech", a silicone free protectant that keeps your cuffs
& seals limber & lively.
Comes in a pump spray, 8oz for $8.00.
Work it in with a cotton ball or rag for best results.
For those of you that are not afraid of silicone, we have McNett's "Seal Saver",
a 100% silicone oil in 1½ fl oz squeeze bottle for $5.
100% pure virgin Beeswax: $2
for a smaller version of the "mini-puck".
Carefully
applied it will not mess up future glue jobs, and some suits, such as
Viking's Extreme and Poseidon Unisuits, are unphased by silicone. We
have literally soaked suit materials and latex rubber samples in liquid
silicone overnight and were still able to get a frogbutt-tight glue job
the next day with nothing more than a thorough degreasing with toluene.
Drygloves &
Rings Info:
Viking
Dry Glove Ring Kits
Viking
Bayonet Ring Kits
Full
Kit with a pair of bell cuffs and 2 pairs of gloves: $167.90
Your
choice of gloves, either Heavy Duty Viking (pictured above)
AND
/ OR:
"Blue
Smurf" / Showa / Atlas 495 (pictured above)
Please
specify glove type AND size in the "comments" box during
checkout.
please
note: US shipping charge of $10.35 will be added
into the purchase price.
Viking
Bayonet Ring Kit, with 2 cuffs & 2 pr gloves plus US Priority
Mail Shipping ($10.35)
$178.25 total
"Stripped"
Viking Bayonet Ring Kit: $105.40
(no
cuffs or gloves)
please
note: US shipping charge of $8.70 will be added into the purchase price.
Viking
Bayonet Ring Kit, rings only + US Priority Mail Shipping:
$114.10 total
The
"stripped" Viking Bayonet kit ($105.40) + 1 pair of Smurfs ($16) +
Priority Mail shipping ($8.70) comes to $130.10 total
Viking
"Classic" Ring Kit: $78.00
2
inner hard plastic & 2 outer rubber rings
The "Smurf", "Froggy", "Atlas" and/or other PVC gloves with a fabric
lining will not work well with the "Classic" rings.
please
note: US shipping charge of $8.70 will be added into the purchase price.
Viking
"Classic" Ring Kit + US Priority Mail Shipping:
$86.70 total
Gloves
available to ring kit customers:
Showa®/Atlas 495:
$16/pr - sizes: 8/M, 9/L, 10/XL
HD Viking:
$22/pr - sizes 10, 11
Heavy Duty Viking Latex Rubber Gloves are available only in sizes 10
& 11.
Atlas
660 (blue) or 620 (orange) gloves (S, M, L, XL, XXL): $4/pr
Green
PVC "Froggy" gloves (only in size XL)$4/pr
Thermastat® or THERMAX®
liners (light weight, 1 size): $6/pr
TEGERA®
liners (medium weight, 1 size)
$6/pr.
Poly-Fleece
liners $4/pr - suitable for use with HD Viking or Showa /
"Smurf" gloves.
Kevlar®
Overgloves are available
for $24.50
"Froggy"
(green) PVC are available in size XL only.
Usually
the maximum shipping charge is $10.35 for a flat-rate Priority Mail
medium size box, send email with list for exact shipping quote if your
package isn't listed above or if you want to mix & match.
Please
specify glove type AND SIZE
in the "comments" box during checkout.
Send
email for adjusted shipping prices if adding extra
gloves to your order.
International
customers please send email for shipping options.
Hand
Measurement is done like this:
Inch
reading = your glove size.
It
is usually better to round up but some gloves have plenty of room.
(Like
the HD Viking and Showa)
Please be advised that a full line of
drysuit repair parts are also available, such as cuffs, neck seals,
hoods, zippers, tape, and glue.
One
of our customers has, at our request, posted an online instruction set
for the installation of the Viking Bayonet Dryglove System that is
superior to the often-confusing printed instructions that come with the
rings.
See: http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=192634
We
also have a few other styles of rubber gloves, like the Viking
5-finger; a heavy latex rubber for more severe duty. ($22)
Many
aftermarket varieties will work, such as Harbor Freight's ($5 - $6)
"sandblasting" or "plumber gloves" that will need to have the gauntlet
cut down.
Spare
cuffs run $28 - $32/pair if/when needed.
Some
folks like to keep at least 1 spare cuff handy. If stored properly you
should have no problem seeing spare cuffs last 5 years or
better.
More
info on the Bayonet and pics of both types can be found at: http://www.vikingdiving.com
More
specifically the rings are at: http://www.vikingdiving.com/?id=1832&subid=1832
The
heavy rubber 5-finger gloves, 2-finger mitts & 3-finger mitts
are at: http://www.vikingdiving.com/?id=1834&subid=1834
We
stock only the heavy rubber 5-finger Viking; the more common sport use
Smurf/Showa/Atlas are aftermarket provisions.
To
purchase send email with your shipping address for exact shipping cost;
we charge as close to actual postage as possible.
We
gladly ship internationally with the US Postal Service being our
primary choice.
One
of our customers has, at our request, posted an online instruction set
for the installation of the Viking Bayonet Dryglove System that is
superior to the often-confusing printed instructions that come with the
rings.
See:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=192634
Anyone wanting to score a pile
of brownie points should post a ring mounting "HowTo"
video on YouTube.
If
you'd like more info or want to order, email works the best/fastest for
us. Send an email to: salesinfo@comdive.com
Please be aware that the only way we have of processing credit cards is
through PayPal.
Prices on
cuff,
seals, hoods, glue:
Cuffs:
Bell / Bellows: $28/pr
Pro:
$32/pr (flat conical, ½ HD, ½ regular
thickness. Also called
"double
dipped")
HD: $36/pr
(all one
thickness, some folks find them too thick for periods of long use).
Neckseals:
bellows or flat conical, $28. The flat conical is
also
available in
"double dipped" ( ½HD, ½
"regular" thickness) for the same price as the
regular single thickness neckseals.
Both
the bell / bellows cuffs & neckseals come in several sizes;
you'll
need to wrap a tape measure around the neck or wrist so we can select
the proper size.
Latex hoods are $34.
Zippers:
Standard 8 teeth
per inch
in several lengths: $145.
HD zippers (6
tpi) have teeth
that
are actually individually riveted right through the fabric.
31.5", 35.5", and 37" with 8 tpi: $145
37" HD, 6 tpi, riveted teeth: $195
relief zippers: $80 (8 tpi) HD relief zippers are
available,
though most folks prefer the more flexible 8 teeth per inch version.
Reinforcing strips, rear zip: $18
Reinforcing strip, relief zip: $12
Tape,
Melco fabric or rubber: $1.50/ft. (3' needed per
pair of cuffs)
Cotton
parachute
bias fabric tape for $1.50 / yd.
GLUES:
We have
several types of drysuit glues in stock now; Vulcanized Rubber
(with hardener), McNett's "Seal Cement" (the Cadillac of neoprene
wetsuit glues), Pliobond (PBC-20), and now PB-300, one of the best
all-round drysuit adhesives out there.
PB-300 - $19.95
/4oz.
can. One of the best drysuit
adhesives available, it can be "reactivated" by using either heat or
solvents. MEK is the preferred thinner/cleaner.
Also
available in 8oz. cans by special request. Email for price.
PlioBond: $12 /8oz. can - uses MEK for thinner/cleaner.
McNett's
"Seal Cement" (neoprene cement): $8.50/4
oz can, black.
Uses toluene / toluol for thinner.
Viking
/ Gates / Amron vulcanized rubber glue / cement is $24 for a
pint
can,
$16 for a 1 oz. bottle of hardener,
usually enough to do at least 2
cans of
glue. Uses heptane for thinner.
We
can re-package the vulcanized rubber cement into 4 oz or 8 oz cans now.
Also available in quarts & gallons.
Manufacturers
& Repair Facilities:
Ask about bulk quantities for hardener;
specifically:
DESMODUR®
RFE
Click
the above for more info.
Postage
for the 4oz & 8oz cans runs $4.95, and unfortunately postal
regs do not allow the glues to be shipped internationally.
Shipped
in accordance with the "ORM-D" requirements.
Valves:
low profile exhaust: $65
Viking Hazmat Low Profile: $80
Inflator Valve: $58
Inflator Valve, Swivel: $73
Cuff Dump (with port): $35
Hood Vent: $12
Labor rates:
Cuff, each: $25
Neckseal: $35
Hood, plain latex: $35
Hood, neoprene: $50
Zipper, rear or front: $110
Zipper, relief: $65
Reinforcement: $30
Pocket: $50
Boots: $100
Boots, steel toe: $135
Regulator Rebuild: $18 per stage
Payment info
& contact page:
http://comdive.com/pay.htm
If
using a credit card or paypal be sure to to click the tiny
link immediately below "ComDive.com
merchandise" which says: +Please List your Items,
which then opens a little text entry box so you can identify what your
payment is for.
The
link is pretty small & easy to miss, plus if you have a popup
killer it may not appear.
If
you are having any sort of trouble we can always email an invoice to
you, just ask.
The reason we don't use a "shopping cart" is because paypal
has no good way to calculate shipping cost by weight, just by
dollar amount or flat rate.
Getting
gouged on shipping is one of my main irritations of shopping online and
I figure there are a lot of other shoppers that share the sentiment.
It may be a little more work because of the email-swapping but
you will not be overcharged for shipping this way.
thanks,
Bob
Thiry
Triton
Marine
=-=-=-=-=
Robert
Thiry
Triton
Marine
2044
Bowling Green Drive
Sacramento
CA 95825-0102
USA
=-=-=-=-=-=
voice:
(916) 922-1135
fax:
(610) 744-4190
voice
mail: (775) 406-2917
salesinfo@comdive.com
http://comdive.com
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
100%
No B.S.
Guarantee
You are guaranteed to be 100% happy with whatever you buy from us or
you may return for full refund, (shipping excluded).
Items must be returned in original condition unless otherwise stated.
